MARCO PELUSI TACKLES MORE OF YOUR HAIR ISSUES!
By Marco Pelusi, Marco Pelusi Hair Studio, Inc. www.marcopelusi.com
Gem asks: I have pretty fine hair that has annoying cowlicks in it. The only way, I've been able to straighten my hair is with a flat iron,
which eliminates all volume. Can you suggest another way to tame my
annoying cowlicks and preserve volume?
Marco: Hi there! Yes that's an issue for certain - the combination of fine hair with the challenges of growth patterns (or cowlicks) can be tricky. The first item to consider is the stylist who cuts your hair. You have specific needs that must be communicated to your stylist. You literally must say to your stylist 'I need you to respect the growth patterns of my hair while you cut it'. As a general rule, less tension should be applied by your stylist during a haircut to the areas in which you have cowlicks. If too much tension is applied, the cowlick can be exposed, and can rear its ugly head, and then you are forced to tame it all the time. I truly believe if you get a better haircut - one that respects the growth patterns and cowlicks on your head - your hair should fall more naturally and you will be able to control it much easier. Secondly, yes, a flat iron does tend to flatten the hair. But, a trick you can use when using a flat iron in the cowlick areas is not to start at the scalp area - but rather, start at least a 1/2 inch away from the scalp. It's ok to have a little bend at the scalp area, and if you eliminate it altogether, the hair will be flat. Also, when using the flat iron in these areas, direct the flat iron straight up into the air, in a vertical direction - not down, nor to the side. Lift it up. And finally, aim to learn to utilize a metal brush when styling your hair instead of a flat iron, as you can achieve smoothness and volume simultaneously when you're skilled with a brush. If you have no idea how to use a brush, ask your stylist to demonstrate. Also I have a marvelous, alcohol-free gel (Marco Color Control Gel with Collagen Color Guard) available at www.marcopelusi.com that will add volume to your hair before blowdrying.
Artcandy asks:I love my hair dark ( it is natural) Have read that after your over a certain age its best to lighten up. Is this true with everyone? Thanks so much!
Marco: As a colorist, yes, generally speaking, I do believe that as we get older, we shouldn't be AS dark with our haircolor as we once were. The reason for this is: as we age, we lose pigment in our skin and our hair, so the very dark hair no longer looks as good as it once did next to our skin.
A woman in her early 30s can probably pull off the same level of darkness in her hair as she had in her 20s. But once she gets into her later 30s, and most definitely into her mid to late 40s, she needs to lighten it up a bit. I'm not suggesting for you to become blonde! I'm merely suggesting that slowly, gradually, you should aim to lighten your hair, over the years, at least by a few shades. If you have a very dark, rich brunette color, begin by adding a few caramel highlights. If you like them, gradually add more. Eventually, ask your stylist to slowly lighten your base color by a few shades, to catch with the highlights. This lightening can be natural looking, if done in harmony with the highlighting. During this transformation, and with all haircolor, make sure to use color-safe products. Check mine out at www.marcopelusi.com.
Thank-you Marco! Once again, your honest answers are very appreciated! What do you think ladies? Any tips from this you can try at home?
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Reviews
Marco - what great advice!! I have only had one hairdresser who 'respected' my cowlicks.I used to part my hair on the right and she said, well actually you have a cowlick on the right -- you hair will look much better if you part it on the left! I was so impressed (as I never really knew why my parts were always bad) and have always parted it on the left since (except now when I have a blunt fringe).
I'm not sure if I agree with a women needing to go lighter when she gets older. I know some beautiful women in their 40's with dark brown to black and they look great! Of course it's natural and not dyed dark. IMHO going lighter has to do with a lot of other factors then just age. However, I'm no expert. The Marco Color Control Gel with Collagen Color Guard sounds divine!
Thanks for the tips Marco! I too have fine hair with a cowlick. As a result, styling my hair has always been a battle. I will surely make sure that my next stylist (my old one moved) respects my cowlick, if not, I will move on until I do. My cowlick is in the front of my hairline, in the middle. When I had blunt bangs, I would put some volumizer on the cowlick, and then brush that area in different directions (like a crisscross pattern) as I used the hair dryer, until completely dry, before moving on to the rest of my hair. It kept the bangs from looking flat.
Question 1:does any of you manage to use a flat iron and a brush at the same time successfully?Question 2:does being unable not to burn myself when I use a flat iron with a brush make me an idiot?Question 3:my hair is 23 inches long, is it even possible to use a flat iron, a brush, lift hair up instead of down or sideways and not get a burn or a cramp?
Oh, this article has scared me a little - I have naturally very dark [almost black] hair and now I'm concerned I'll have to start lightening it once I hit a certain age! Argh! I already find it difficult enough dealing with and maintaining small streaks in my hair, imagine having to deal with an entire *head* of lightened hair?! What a nightmare. I may have to look at my options when the time comes.. shaving clippers anyone? ;]
It's worried me a bit too since my hair is getting darker as I get older - it seems like I would be fighting an up hill battle if I want it to get lighter! I also want to start using natural dyes (such as henna) and you can't lighten hair with them - I really don't want to use chemicals on a regular basis!
Oh I'm so with you - if I ever put colour in my hair it's only semi-permenants or henna if I can convince a friend to help me - it can be soooo messy on hair as long as mine! I hope I don't have to succumb to the chemical lightening agents anytime soon. :|
Haha I have cowlicks too! Horrible ones on top of curly hair! Its a wierd combination.Love the advice... And that is very interesting about the dark hair.I've never hear that before now. But now that I think of it... It does look a bit odd to have really dark hair on older people
Tan is Love
So that's why my mom dyed her hair an auburn color. I'm not sure if I'd want to maintain an unnatural haircolor. Although I've had greys poppin up like crazy since I was 11, and fortunately I have very thick hair, so I don't have to worry about dying it yet. It might be a thought when my hair thins.
Great, thanks.
Thank you I also have a very annoying cowlick so I will be telling any future stylists to respect the growth pattern-or else....Also have been looking at photos of me as a child and even though I always had the cow lick it didnt seem so obvious-because it was wavy so mabye I'll relax with straighting my hair into submission and embrace the wave.Solero on question 3-the GHD is supposed to be a very versitile tool for creating waves ,flicks even curls-any salon that uses them should be able to show you a few tricks if you ask them,they also have a smaller version for shorter hair,fringes etc-they heat up very quickly so set the style pretty quickly.
PotionPrincess♥
solero- i always use a brush whilst straightening my hair and i have no problems i sit in front of a mirror with my brush in my left hand and the straightener in my right, i use a round brush and brush throught the section i am going to be straightening then put the bruch under this section as close to the scalp as i can then as i am brushing down i clamp the straightener just above it and the straightener just follows the brush down my hair, then on the ne next section.i hope this makes sence-quite hard to write it down (need step by step pictures!)and hope this helps x
i straighten my hair the exact same way! i think it totally makes sense. i don't know how to do it any other way. i can't even imagine using my hand to touch the hair cause it'll be so hot!
Thanks Marco for your GREAT advice. I started to respect my "lick" in the front of my hair. I experimented with parting my hair on the other side. I used some of your flat iron tips (straigtening 1/2 inch from scalp in an upward motion) this morning when styling my hair. I am amazed at the difference in volume in my hair. I wish I had enough time in the morning to blow dry my hair with a brush. I use the flat iron on my slightly damp hair to save time with styling. Thanks again! xo. gem
Great questions and great advice, thank you Marco for giving thorough in depth answers! I have a cowlick at the front of my hair and will make sure to start working it correctly(I start at the scalp). Thank you!
Interesting advice about hair color and age. My mom has dyed her hair blonde for years but since she's gotten older and money's gotten tighter she's started just getting highlights instead of all-over color. That way some of her natural light brown and even some gray are in there too. And you know what? It looks good because it looks age appropriate. She doesn't look matronly, but she doesn't look like she's trying to look 25, either.
Thanks for the advice! My hair is parted pretty dramatically and I have a cowlick in my bangs that occasionally likes to pop up-- but not all the time, and somehow it's seemed to gotten a bit more tame. I would spend forever wetting it and then taking a small tooth comb and pulling it down really hard to try to get it to stay down. The next time I straighten my hair I'll have to try the lifting method! Since it's very thick and curly I tend to pull it down (like with the cowlick) pretty firmly to aid in the straightening. It does lose a lot of volume that way, and other than the heat protecting spray I don't like to use any other products on it (like a mousse or hair spray). I also agree that that's interesting about hair color as we age. For some reason it immediately made me think of the little old ladies with the harshly died stark black hair. It's so dark and so unnatural, it just makes them look so much older-- and you immediately think 'wow that's some dyed hair', which shouldn't be the desired effect.
my hair was naturally dark brown always but since i turned 20 and later on it was just getting lighter and lighter, so now i am a very warm medium brown. i did notice that warmer lighter brown works much better with my complexion and makes me look more youthful (i know it is strange to hear from a 25 yr old), or refreshed. Even on young girls dark haircolor looks a bit heavy.
I am so hoping that marco eventually answers some questions on my hair type. Is there a place where we can write our questions to him????I want to know more about curly hair, best cuts, essential oils etc.I also agree with some of the other girls that you shouldn't have to go lighter as you get older! I think right nows trends are for lighter, more highlighted straight hair. I am hoping it swings back the other way sometime soon.Dark, curly hair!!!!! 80's clothes have come back--lets go 80's hair1!!
Hey! Thanks for the tips :) Here's one of my own for the first problem - I find that when I'm straightening my hair the easiest/fastest way to ensure that it still has volume is the straighten my hair upside down. As in, flipping my hair over to straighten it. It's the same effect as what Marco mentioned, but it stays in the upside down position longer (and I find it easier) and I think letting it cool in that position also helps :) LMK if you guys try this! I'm not sure who else does it lol I know my family thinks I'm crazy when I do :D
xoxo
Oh wow I would have never thought of that solution for cowlicks..I guess it all does start with a good haircut, the Experts know. Also after you flat iron and get the straightness you want, flip your hair over and blow dry your hair with the cool blast and this adds volume.
;) Gloss & Gum <3
Wow I never knew about the lightening your hair as you get older. I have pitch black hair but I'm still young so I have a long way to go. I hope lighter hair color in old age will look good on me. Thanks for the advice!
You definitely gave us some tip that we can use home! I love the idea of holding the flat iron straight up into the air rather than pulling it down. I don't really have cowlicks but my hair does sometimes get a little flat when I use my flat iron...I've never done highlights but would like to. I think I will start with face framing highlights in a caramel color like you suggested, thanks!
I think dark hair only looks "odd" on people who have purposefully dyed their hair black or dark brown and they have lighter/grey hair. That's just me though :)I have a little cow lick in my front of my hair and I will definitely start using the top about holding the iron straight up instead of pulling it down. I hate how thin my hair looks when I flat iron sometimes.
Thank you dearly, for taking the time to write not just one liners but clearly some great suggestions and ideas about what you think. I may lighten up just a smidge this summer. Honestly I was blond for 15 years, not fully but so many streaks all over gradually I would come out of the salon not having it natural and just plain old fake. (A look I myself do not like to wear). Less is more. I remember it really denting the bank account. Approx 12 years ago. It cost approx $120 just for the streaks alone. Plus the cut I'd be lucky to come out under $200 in a trendy salon in Yaletown, Vancouver, Canada. Yikes! Don't get me wrong, there is something to be said for beauticians. I believe it is a true art, and one that should be recognized, for the time, and talent. You come in looking blah... and you leave looking hot! I can just imagine cost wise what I would be looking at if I start the process of just lightly streaking. This is a bit not on topic but may as well throw it in. At the salon one of the beauticians had a sign up that said, "BANGS OR BOTOX?" It always made me laugh!Artcandy
♥Robyn♥
Thanks Marco!What great advice! I am currently hair sad- my stylist is moving- I am totally going to have a breakdown!That is great advice about the cowlicks- Have any idea about those nasty ones at the forhead that make it impossible to have cute straight bangs?Ahhh- I am so glad that I have a while to go before the lightening of the hair- and thus the "probably inappropriate to dye ones hair pink" stage! hehehe
I like the tip about going lighter as you get older. I just turned 30 and like reading tips about what women should do in their 30's and as they get older. I have dark brown hair but have been thinking of putting so low or highlights in, or even adding a gloss. Oh and completely change up my hair. I can't wait to get to the hairdresser.
Does lightening your hair as you get older apply to Asians? I have dark brown/black hair, and I can't imagine lightening it by much without it just looking really silly on me.
M mom is doing the whole lightening up her hair gradually thing.. i'm a bit freaked out about loosing the color in my hair though. Its already starting to happen.. may hair was jet back but around a year ago it started to get brown and caramel highlights without much sun exposer ( umm... highlight fairy did it in my sleep ?). It doesn't look too bad now but if it gets worse i would have to start to dye my all natural hair :-(
oh nos, i have jet black hair, and i really would hate to see my hair lightening up, i think black hair would turn gray rather than.. brown?
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To the best of my knowledge, I only have two cowlicks. They are both in my bangs kind of like this )( so my bangs would always gather in the middle...which is why I grew them out. Ha, take that stupid cowlicks!
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Thank you so so so so so much for this article! MY hair is really flat and I have this annoying cowlick! Going to try this ASAP :) Hope there is a lotta volume!
Thanks Marco! I have a cowlick, it's so annoying, nothing I try helps so I'm going to give these tips a go.
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I just found this site and Marco's tips are some of my favourite articles. I think I've figured a lot of this out on my own over the years but it would be a lot better for me to actually develop a relationship with a stylist for personalized advice. I need to find myself a Marco!
Great article and thank you for sharing! I'm in cosmetology and I have a habbit of pulling the hair taunt and cut palm away. I'm left handed too so I apparently cut differently. I also didn't know that your skin pigment lessened. I know your hair losses pigment as you age cause it to be gray/white. Thanks so much, it'll help me in the salon alot.
Krysta<3